Mod Contest Thread - Oct 05

[digitalAngel]

Announcing Yoshi.us' First Cheap and Easy Mod Contest.

Rules: http://www.yoshi.us/forums/showthread.php?t=19662

[Jimbo-b]

Well here we go, I guess I'll Be the FIRST

me and Brad-C completed an oil cooled PSU

The first step was to remove the "Guts" of the PSU from its original metal case, and strip it of anything we dont need it to have.

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/8382/dscf01494vg.th.jpg (http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/8382/dscf01494vg.jpg)

Disclaimer: This is a potentially dangerous act. And one could be seriously shocked/injured from doing so. The PSU had not been used/plugged in, in over a year, please if you dont know what your doing please do not try this at home.

so anyway, in one night we fabricated a plexiglass box to fit the PSU in, probably from about 7pm till 11pm (eastern time) lol

at any rate to create the plexiglass box we cut it out on a ban saw and assembled it with ABS pipe solvent (which proved not to work all that well), the ABS pipe solvent is what made this take the whole night (drying time)

we added strips to the edges of the top and bottom so that there would be more surface area to glue to (our plexiglass was thin)

we cut holes for the cables to go out and the power to go in (with my nice handiwork for the input jack)

A LOT of silicone was used to seal up the cables, and we also siliconed the joints, (just in case)

http://img278.imageshack.us/img278/5643/dscf01733ph.th.jpg (http://img278.imageshack.us/img278/5643/dscf01733ph.jpg)

the ABS pipe solvent made the lid crack, meh, it was only a test for a good PSU in a GOOD computer anyway.

This is about as far as we got in the one night.

[Jimbo-b]

The next day in the afternoon we decided to test this beast to see if it was worth building in the first place.

So i went out and bought a $5 CAD bottle of canola oil (the smoke point of canola oil is between 350 and 400ºF, and the combustion point is beyond that)

so we tested it without any fans for about 10 seconds, and temperatures ranged from 90 to 130ºF (the computer would not fully boot but we left it with the 4 or 5 drives running (old HDDS and an FDD) they continued to spin so it was an accurate measure of power drain)

anywho, time to fill er up

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/6232/dscf01764rc.th.jpg (http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/6232/dscf01764rc.jpg)

again please dont try this at home if you dont know what your doing

anyway it started up and ran for about 3 hours in the same conditions as the 10 second dry run

the temperature of the oil after 3 hours was uniformly 105ºF, nicely cooler (lid was on)

anywho, here's the final shot

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/701/img00702sg.jpg
(oil on ground i spilled, it didnt leak)

BUILD TALLY

Re-Used PLexiglass from previous project................$0 CAD
Old PSU from P2 200MHz IBM .............................$0 CAD
ABS pipe solvent (donated by brad)......................$0 CAD
Canola oil..............................................$ 5 CAD
Building the best darn cheap mod that runs quiet....$$Priceless$$

GRAND TOTAL.......................................$5 CAD approx $4.26 USD



more details at www.eng.uwaterloo.ca/~jpburger
(under oil psu)

[computerman]

alright let the fun begin.
A simple yet "sparkling" chasis paint job
supplies:
Rustolium ruster primer-5$
Rustolium blue metalic (2)-12$
Rustolium gloss finish-5$
Various sand papers-0$ *had it already*

Started with a dragon case with an inside looking like so
http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/5488/pict01039gt.th.jpg (http://img66.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict01039gt.jpg)

after removing everything and finishing other little modification thats had to be done (this one part of a much bigger project). i began with the primer and than sanded as needed. all together using 3 coats of primer.
Than 5-6 coats of the blue metalic which was sanded with 1500grit and 2K grit wet dry sand paper. Than, two coats of clear.
The pictures of the primer are blurry sorry.
http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/4443/pict06012de.th.jpg (http://img308.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict06012de.jpg)

[computerman]

finished shot
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4964/pict00394gz.th.jpg (http://img204.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00394gz.jpg)
another finished shot (remember light plays a HUGE role since its metalic finish)
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/3302/pict00620sb.th.jpg (http://img189.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00620sb.jpg)
well thats all, this took from Friday night to sunday night. id take newer pictures but the other things i did would have to be in the shot.

[flashdude]

Ok here's my entry (so I can vote, lol) It started off as the typical dreaded beige box. Sanded with 150 than 450 (had a semi smooth surface) and primed and painted the front bezel with red car paint (99 chevy venture) and painted the cover with gloss black, and the power buttons with white gloss. I also added a tie die like lable to the front (cut from a shinny mutant mods fan box)
The real boss my 8yr old loves it.

Here's the Link for the worklog Little FD's computer (http://www.yoshi.us/forums/showthread.php?t=19360&page=2&pp=10)


http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/3609/before9fl.th.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/676/face14va.th.jpg

[flashdude]

http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/2536/case21gp.th.jpg

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5553/side8ja.th.jpg

Red paint $0 (had from touch up of my van last year)

Primer $0 (donated by friend)

Sandpaper $0 (donated by same friend)

Blue led fan $10

Total $10.00 Started friday night and put it together Sunday.

[TMG]

here is my psp...

http://www.yoshi.us/forums/showthread.php?t=19470

http://www.fatalbox.com/images/psp/PICT0019%20(Small).JPG
http://www.fatalbox.com/images/psp/PICT0020%20(Small).JPG
http://www.fatalbox.com/images/psp/PICT0021%20(Small).JPG

paint and material was around $25-30...

[moderman]

Heres My Mod. I first got my Ultra glossy dragon Christmas of 2004. I loved the case so much I made sure it was dust free. As time went on I thought I'd paint the chassie. Because the boring color of steel (not painted), is pretty Boring. I also re-glossed it also.

Heres the Thread for it
http://www.yoshi.us/forums/showthread.php?t=19306

Heres the process
1st- tape off any unwanted painted areas
2nd- sand in following process
400 grit sand paper - Sand off the previous paint on the case completely down to the raw metal.
600 grit sand paper
800 grit sand paper
1000 grit sand paper
1500 grit sand paper
2000 grit sand paper
3rd-painting Process
Then use black automotive primer. Go up and down evenly 6 inches away from the case, do this to make 2 layers. Letting eacher layer dry properly.

Then use black automotive paint. Go up and down evenly 6 inches away from the case, do this to make 3 layers. Letting each layer dry properly.

Then use automative gloss paint. Go up and down evenly 6 inches away from the case, do this to make 2 layers. Letting each layer dry propery.

>>>P.S the paint may look screwed up but its just the flash on the camera I couldnt turn it off<<<

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6711/p10101292ld.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101292ld.jpg)

http://img435.imageshack.us/img435/4135/p10101301pt.th.jpg (http://img435.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101301pt.jpg)

[moderman]

http://img435.imageshack.us/img435/4135/p10101301pt.th.jpg (http://img435.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101301pt.jpg)

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/2261/p10101350az.th.jpg (http://img172.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101350az.jpg)

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/439/p10101318rz.th.jpg (http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101318rz.jpg)

Grand total-

paint- $30.00 (auto zone)
sandpaper-$15.00 (auto zone)
plastic wire stuff-$Free (friend)
Total- $45.00

BIG OLD THANK YOU TO MY BUDDY VIPER_0000

[c0d3_z3r0]

Here is my mod:
I done a stealth dvd drive cover for a faceless drive.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/c0d3_z3r0/Projects/closed.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/c0d3_z3r0/Projects/open.jpg

Supplies:
Drive bay cover: Free(got it from another PC)
Double sided tape: Free (Already had it)
Hot glue: Free(Already had it)

TOTAL Cost: $0.00

[nate007]

Heres my integrated wireless mouse mod.

Note: There will have to be 3 posts to accomidate all the pics so please bare with me.

step 1 was to rip the laptop apart, this included taking out many screws on the bottom of the chassis and some hidden screws also. :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0143.jpg
Step 2 was to disassemble the receiver, 2 screws and it fell apart:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0139.jpg
Step 3 was to de-solder the USB plug, LED, and connect switch (what a pain that was):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0146.jpg
Step 4 was to re-solder wires to the USB/ LED/switch contacts(2 burns were sustained during the following):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0150.jpg

[nate007]

Step 5 was to locate the USB solder points on the laptop Mobo:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0144.jpg
Step 6 was to mount the reciever unit to the laptop with foam mounting tape and hot glue:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0158.jpg
Step 7 was to place the switch and LED where they can be seen, The switch went perfectly through the locking hole on the back of the case, and the LED was mounted in the right speaker bay so the light could show through the holes(both were mounted with hot glue.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0155.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0156.jpg

[nate007]

Step 8 was to solder up the contacts to the USB:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0160.jpg
Here it is with the top cover on:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0162.jpg
Heres the light showing through the speaker holes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v373/nate007/PCDV0163.jpg
I had a great experience doing this mod and yes, it is working perfectly fine. I will look forward to a mod contest every month.(please please please)

Supplies:
Dell Latitude 110L(had it for a while): free
Wireless mouse: $15.00(from a friend)
Solder/solder wick: free
Hot glue and foam mounting tape:free
Wires from an old front panel audio bus: free
>total time taken: 3.5 hours
>injuries sustained:2 minor burns on my left index finger

Cost: $15.00

Thats all folks.

[dstone]

I was in Chemistry class listening to a lecture when the idea hit me: what would it look like if Cray had built the WOPR in "War Games?" I hacked out a sketch, then went home and built a rough 3D model in AutoCAD (the colors went a bit haywire when I switched to a white background for a screenshot).

http://img464.imageshack.us/img464/7396/case5ym.jpg

I was finishing this up when I read about the mod competition and figured this would be a good project. After thinking for a while on it, I decided it would be best to build the case out of Styrofoam, due to low cost and ease of cutting. I built a skeleton out of 1/2" foamboard (all foamboard was purchased at Hobby Lobby) and figured out where the CD-ROM drive and hard drive would sit. I pinned everything together with quilting pins at first, then when I was happy with how it came out I hot glued everything in place.

http://img418.imageshack.us/img418/6826/frame14vq.jpg http://img423.imageshack.us/img423/4992/frame20eb.jpg http://img423.imageshack.us/img423/6941/frame34yz.jpg

[dstone]

I then skinned the skeleton with silver foamboard, but was unhappy with the rough look of the edges. Foil tape to the rescue! I taped around every edge, which worked out great until I ran out when I was 3/4 of the way done. Thankfully, I found another roll buried deep in the tape drawer, although it was really wrinkley, but it would work fine. My original idea was to paint overhead transparencies and mount them in the windows I cut in the back, however after I painted them with Krylon Fusion my lights would no longer show through. I ended up scrapping the idea which ended up for the better; I was able to add a very unique vent to the top where the effect would have been lost due to light escaping.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/2374/skin13xb.jpg http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/2845/skin25pm.jpg

My electronic parts finally came in and I was able to build a circuit that would make 8 LEDs flash in a seemingly random manner (all the LEDs and flasher parts were ordered through Jameco Electronics). My soldiering iron tip kept getting smaller and smaller as I went, it was a miracle the board even worked. After carefully installing that, I finished running the foil tape and fired everything up!

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/179/fin29yc.jpg
http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/3194/fin39jt.jpg

[dstone]

There are 38 LED lights that flash several times a second. The circuit is based off a counter that drives a 7 segment LCD display (plus one for a second counter trigger). Instead of installing a 7 segment display, I put an individual LED light per segment hookup (ended up with about 5 lights per single light hookup). The end result is a nice effect with a different series of lights being on and changing about 2-3 times a second. My sister described it as almost looking sinister. You look at it and wonder... What is it thinking?...

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/6588/fin43br.jpg
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/873/fincd3ix.jpg

And the back of the unit (I don't have a mini-itx board yet, but now I have a case; the connectors will go where the power switch currently is). The last picture is a closeup of the lights in the front in semi-darkness.

http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/3007/finback6bq.jpg http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/3999/finlights5nh.jpg

All in all, it was a very fun and educational project. It helped me learn how to deal with problems on the fly and how to improvise if something doesn't quite work correctly.


Total Time: about 15 hours
Total Cost: $29.71 US

(1) 1/2" x 30" x 20" foamboard $3.99
(2) 1/8" x 30" x 20" silver foamboard total $9.98
(1) 1/8" x 30" x 20" black foamboard $4.99
LEDs/ICs/misc electronics $10.75
Paint freebie
48x24x50 CD-RW freebie
200w PSU freebie
2.1 GB Seagate HDD freebie
overhead transparencies freebie
foil tape freebie
glue sticks freebie

Having lots of little flashing lights that gives your project a sinister look: priceless.

[brian_holiday]

Retro-Stealth

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/briholiday/FP-Installed.jpg

Introduction:

The Retro Stealth project had one simple goal, hide a DVD drive behind a faux 5.25-inch floppy drive faceplate. While there were several problems encountered during prototyping, the finished project came out as an attractive and functional addition to my mod collection.

Details:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/briholiday/btn-pres.jpg

The switch has been relocated to the new faux floppy faceplate under the floppy door lever. To open the drive just push on the top of the lever and it activates the remote switch. I replaced the green window from the original floppy faceplate with a small piece of clear plastic from a donor CD case, filed to fit and lightly sanded to opaque to better diffuse the LED to be added later.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/briholiday/unass-back.jpg

The faceplate assembly features small hardwood blocks in the corner to support the screws. I also salvaged the tiny connectors and glued in a socket to connect the wire to the switch. As you can see, the LED assembly I plan to add is in place and only needs to be wired up.

The switch leads sit in two small location holes and is glued to the styrene back plate. The switch wiring is glued down with craft adhesive to prevent motion. From this angle you can see the styrene faux floppy (the horizontal bar on the top of the backing plate) which adds rigidity to the backing plate.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/briholiday/FP-Back.jpg

This is the back of the back-plate after the unit is assembled, with the salvaged tray faceplate from the donor CD ROM. This part may be replaced by a shim if you don’t mind drilling holes in the tray or using double sided tape.

<continued next post>

[brian_holiday]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/briholiday/btm-wman.jpg

A miniature wire management assembly folds behind the faceplate when the drive is closed. Currently it only carries the switch circuit, but in the future I plan to add a remote LED to the device. I destroyed an old drive during prototyping by shorting the LED and I am a little gun-shy right now. It connects to a custom styrene replacement faceplate attached by screws to the plastic frame of the drive. That faceplate holds the homemade styrene hinge glued using solvent glue.

I will post full instructions on my blog at: <will add URL when posted>

Time spend building:

About 8 hours.

Materials Cost:

Misc Styrene shapes and sheets= $10
Styrene solvent glue= $2.29
Small magnet wire = $5 (roll) about 12 inches used)
Assorted nuts, bolts, and screws = $2
Craft adhesive $3 (E6000)
Donor 5.25 Floppy Drive= Free
Donor CD ROM drive = Free
A CD Case = Free
Other Assorted hardware = Free

Total ~ $22

BH

[TMG]

That would be me, things may get offset a bit to make it easier on voting, im going to post everything here in a bit...