View Full Version : Frag-0ps.
[GF]Burke
02-17-2004, 03:41 PM
I currently have the system in my signature. Works perfect for my gam'n needs. However getting in more LAN parties and such, I am in the process of building a new "mobile PC".
Here is a few parts I am buying next:
Mobo (http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-150-041&catalog=22&depa=1§ion=1)
Barton (http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=19-103-378&depa=0)
This will be underway in about a month or so.
"Frag-0Ps" unless somebody has a better name..
[GF]Burke
03-03-2004, 08:56 PM
Silent Boost (http://www.case-mod.com/store/product_info.php?ref=7&products_id=185) - bought and modded:
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000820.JPG
[GF]Burke
03-05-2004, 07:56 PM
New case:
W-7.5"
H- 14"
D- 12.6"
Before
http://images.anandtech.com/old/cases/enlight/7308/7308_l.gif http://www.ramsinks.com/images/slide.jpg
[GF]Burke
03-11-2004, 06:13 PM
Fat Rheostat
http://i9.ebayimg.com/01/i/01/2c/ef/46_1.JPG
Thecookiemonster
03-11-2004, 07:17 PM
burke, can ya reply with what that will alow you to do.
i think i have it:
put first one in, and then control speed of all 4 fans ?
tell me how ya like it, i have been looking for torndao controler :P
Hey Burke, that Rheostat controls all the fans at the same speed, no?
[GF]Burke
03-12-2004, 04:30 PM
Ya it will. Im jsut going to use it for the two 120mm's.
[GF]Burke
04-04-2004, 04:17 PM
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000891x2.jpg
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000895.JPG
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000897.jpg
I will be using the 120mm in, and have found that I must use a 92mm on back. The 120mm won't fit on back.. that's ok though.
[GF]Burke
04-04-2004, 08:35 PM
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000898.jpg
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000900.jpg
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000901.jpg
Weapon of Mass-Destruction
04-04-2004, 08:41 PM
i have an idea
cut out part of the top panel and mod a optical drive so you can look at the cd spin
it look pretty cool
WVJammer
04-05-2004, 02:41 AM
Nice cut Burke.
I can see that Red
did come over and
give you some pointers.
:P
Thecookiemonster
04-05-2004, 06:07 AM
Whats the little black ruber thing.
[GF]Burke
04-05-2004, 08:42 AM
Lol Jammer.
It's accually a 5x2 PVC closet flang. But you won't see it when I'm done.
RedXray
04-05-2004, 09:45 AM
Excellent cuts my man!
PVC closet flange hummm as In a water closet? http://casemod.mystarband.net/Smiles/flush.gif lol
What is the Resin and Glass mat for?
Remember to add a bit more MEK (methyl ethel ketone) than the instructions say.
I have worked with that stuff for more years than I'd like to admit. Also cover
up the areas that you don't want contaminated by the resin (mask off) and have
some rags and solvent ready to clean the sticky of your hands.
lookin good!
[GF]Burke
04-05-2004, 11:48 AM
lol, thanks man.
It's just bondo.. to fill in the spaces. Comes with hardner.. is that what you mean?
RedXray
04-05-2004, 12:05 PM
Sorry my bad
I thought the gloves were a package of fiberglass mat (my eyes are going with my old age)
Disregard the MEK lol.
[GF]Burke
04-05-2004, 03:36 PM
lol
I hope it all works out. The biggest obstical at this time is fitting the - handle, PSU and top 5.25 bay drive all in the top area.. I may chop the PSU down, and possible chop some of the DVD drive down.
;)
that bondo stuff sticks to plastic?
is that how your going to like "shape" the case?
RedXray
04-05-2004, 04:42 PM
Originally posted by LAMA@Apr 5 2004, 04:38 PM
that bondo stuff sticks to plastic?
Sticks to plastic very well if scuffed up with at least #80
The challenge will be bonding to the rubber, If that is rubber and thats the plan.
RedXray
04-05-2004, 04:46 PM
Black round thing
After going back over the post
I see he says it's PVC so no problem bonding.
Whats the best cutting tool for plactics? Thick hard plactics. I wanna butches my old dell case.
archer1212
04-15-2004, 10:53 PM
Originally posted by JonR@Apr 6 2004, 06:50 AM
Whats the best cutting tool for plactics? Thick hard plactics. I wanna butches my old dell case.
hack saw?? maybe a jig saw at slow speeds? a dremel would probly melt it all though.
Yea, my dremmel totally melted it, no so badly on lower speeds however. But a jig saw would have worked best, but I used the dremmel, melted it a little, sanded the melted parts afterward, worked out alright.
[GF]Burke
04-16-2004, 07:07 AM
thats what I do. melt the piss out of it!
archer1212
04-16-2004, 06:05 PM
Originally posted by [GF]Burke@Apr 16 2004, 06:07 AM
thats what I do. melt the piss out of it!
he he he meltage
archer1212
04-22-2004, 08:15 PM
so uh burke hows this thing coming since the month is up in a little over in a week and your site says it willbe done by this month. ya know im just courious
[GF]Burke
04-23-2004, 10:12 AM
I'v just been real busy with me new job.. and about 5 customer PC's sitt'n at my house.
I hope this weekend ill get some time to do some more "body work"
SLAY3R
04-23-2004, 10:14 AM
I can't wait until you post more pics. But I guess I have too :(
Marty1
04-23-2004, 11:29 AM
nice cutting post a finished pic.
[GF]Burke
04-24-2004, 09:16 PM
Cut, bondo, cut bondo.
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM0009072.JPG (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000907.JPG?full=1)
SLAY3R
04-24-2004, 09:19 PM
looking good :D
[GF]Burke
04-24-2004, 09:35 PM
You should see the brand new Tt 420 PSU I just bought.. it's about half the size/weight it was.
Mobo orderd~
Originally posted by JonR@Apr 6 2004, 09:50 AM
Whats the best cutting tool for plactics? Thick hard plactics. I wanna butches my old dell case.
After cutting a lot of different pieces of plastic, I have found that a carbide blade on your Dremel works the best. You still get melting problem but I have found that as soon as you start to get the melt going, stop cutting in that area and move to another. If you are making a nice long straight cut, just keep your blade moving back and forth making very shallow cuts at a time.
If you do get excess meltage, a bastard file or needle files for the small stuff work very well for smoothing out the rough stuff.
[GF]Burke
05-09-2004, 08:58 PM
Ok, been busy but here is a small sneak peek.
Brand new Tt PSU 420. Shortened all wires and eliminated extra wires I won't be using.
Modders mess, painted - formed. Moved the wire outlet to face "down" instead of out of the back side.
PSU will get painted on the outside (power plug side). All wires will be loomed once it's in the case.
There is also a hidden UV laser LED inside of this cage. ;)
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000914.jpg (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000914big.jpg?full=1)
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000912.jpg (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM000912big.jpg?full=1)
SLAY3R
05-09-2004, 09:18 PM
That's bad ass Burke B)
WVJammer
05-10-2004, 02:54 AM
Looks great Burke.
Moved the wire outlet to face "down" instead of out of the back side.
Just curious, why?
archer1212
05-10-2004, 05:55 AM
Originally posted by WVJammer@May 10 2004, 01:54 AM
Looks great Burke.
Moved the wire outlet to face "down" instead of out of the back side.
Just curious, why?
for less wires possibly and its different from most PSU mods ive seen
looking good bruke cant wait for it to be finished
bodydrop4ek
05-10-2004, 01:32 PM
looks good
Nice PSU modding :)
I really like the mesh, and I may in fact steal your idea there and add a "mesh" caze to my next PSU. (Not my current ones, as I have painted them, and well, think I did a hell of a job)
scifikg
05-11-2004, 09:10 AM
mesh looks good. Are you going to paint the power supply black and replace the fan grill with mesh?
[GF]Burke
05-11-2004, 06:26 PM
Thanks.
I'll leave the grill but paint the backside black. Once I'm ready to paint the whole case..
its sanding, sanding, sanding time.
merritt
05-11-2004, 06:46 PM
if its for lanpartys and u got a micro atx case then why r u using a big box?
if this is a stupid question then i apologize.
Marty1
05-11-2004, 06:51 PM
My psu has very long wires that take up alot of room. I have never thought of shortening them before, how hard is that and could you give some pointers?
Originally posted by Marty1@May 11 2004, 08:51 PM
My psu has very long wires that take up alot of room. I have never thought of shortening them before, how hard is that and could you give some pointers?
Customizing the wires on your PSU is not very tricky, but it is time consuming. Follow safety procedures applicable for dealing with a PSU first though!!!!!!
First, measure the distance between the PSU and whatever it is going to connect to. decide just how much wire needs to be trimmed out of the middle. Yes, that's right the middle. it is a lot easier to solder two pieces together than it is to reconnect every little wire into every little connector!! Very important!!!>>> TAG EVERY WIRE, on both ends at least an inch preferably more, away from the trim location. Once every wire is marked, get out your wire stripper/cutter and go to town. Cut and strip every wire, strip at least 1/4" of covering back on all sections of wire.
Now the fun begins. Get out your heat shrink tubing and cut it into 3/4" sections. slide each section onto one side of the wire (hint, if you keep it all on the PSU side it's easier to keep track of).
Solder all the wires back together. Slide your heat shrink tubing in place covering ALL exposed wire! Shrink it. Zip tie everything so its nice and tidy. Loom if desired.
Rinse, lather, repeat.
[GF]Burke
05-11-2004, 10:26 PM
wow, thanks kisa.. ya, like that..lol
"Tag every wire"... I accually did just one wire at a time.. so I wouldnt get confusssed.
merritt, the case is
W-7.5"
H- 14"
D- 12.6"
Measure that next to your current case. This is as small/full featured as we get.. (gaming), without going "Dell XPS laptop" style.
WVJammer
05-12-2004, 03:13 AM
My psu has very long wires that take up alot of room. I have never thought of shortening them before, how hard is that and could you give some pointers?
Ahhh.. yea what Kisa said.
:D
Yea, I used to do one at a time, but found that tagging and cutting all at once makes it go a little faster. Also make sure not to make all the cuts in the same area, if you do you'll end up with a buldge in your wire (although not totally noticable, it can stick out)
I like to stagger my cuts about every 1/4" to 1/2" depending on which connector I'm trimming.
Now here's a question: What do you guys do with power connectors you don't need? I normally just hide them, just incase they are needed in the future, but I've also though about chopping them all together. Are there conserns with just cutting them off all together?
[GF]Burke
05-12-2004, 08:45 AM
I cut off all the ones im not using. However I did leave one FDD connection (even though there wont be a FDD in the case) incase I need to "flash" something.
But it will be hidden.
Rotkiv
05-28-2004, 10:43 AM
sweetness, i can't wait to start my own case mod, it's gonna be tight.
is there any way you can show us what look you're aiming for, like from concept art?
archer1212
06-14-2004, 05:35 PM
*goes into a spasm from the lack of updates*
[GF]Burke
07-15-2004, 10:03 PM
lol
K, i know its been a while. However the bondo and sanding stages are complete. I'm just finishing the primer stages. I might take pics.. infact i should..
The first layer of paint goes on tonight.
RedXray
07-15-2004, 10:27 PM
Originally posted by [GF
Burke,Jul 16 2004, 12:03 AM] The first layer of paint goes on tonight.
Good Deal Burke...
Night painting always gave me problems (even in a booth)
Bugs and moths are attracted to fresh paint fumes and It's worse in the summer.
They love to dive-bomb into fresh paint LoL.
Can't wait to see the finished case.
[GF]Burke
07-15-2004, 10:41 PM
lol ya.
Ok, updated: (all pics on my page (http://www.ramsinks.com/frag0ps.aspx))
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/face1smal.jpg (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/face1big.jpg)
Ill have to start the painting tomm.
dworld
07-15-2004, 10:45 PM
i like the way the front of that looks good work
WVJammer
07-16-2004, 02:47 AM
Burke, if I'm not mistaken,
you said this was your first
time using bondo?
If that's the case you did a
great job man. :o
My first time was on a old
66 Mustang, & I'm not even
gonna mention how that turned
out.
Mr. Miyagi
07-16-2004, 02:17 PM
I have the same case but it has a different front brezel. I would like to mod it but yeah, on top, it's very cramped and it's hard to fit in a nice sized PSU in it while having a cd-rom drive. Fantastic job Burke. I can't wait until it's finished.
archer1212
07-16-2004, 05:52 PM
OMG AN UPDATE! wow looking intesting so far but why go with a case that has the sides and top all one piece like in the old AT days?
[GF]Burke
07-16-2004, 06:46 PM
Ya it is my 1st time with bondo.. thanks man.. i cant say ill do it again. You sand, sand sand.. and those stupid little holes are still frig'n there! sand more...
I went with a combo ROM drive that was physically small for fitting purposes (Memorex). The handle will have room in the top ROM slot (only going to have one drive). I can always upgrade the drive with a DVD burner etc.
Finding a case that was the right size and "generic" is hard enough - It's ok, itl have easy access.
dworld
07-16-2004, 07:02 PM
actualy i can of like how you went with the old case style
now i must finish my mod first
[GF]Zenix
07-16-2004, 07:13 PM
did it take you so long becuase you have flipers insted of hands :P
nice job
what color ya painting it?
and are ya gonna put the wolfenstien logo on it?
Xtremist
07-16-2004, 07:24 PM
Nice job, can't wait to see another update.
zeLupin
07-18-2004, 01:03 AM
Originally posted by Xtremist@Jul 16 2004, 09:24 PM
Nice job, can't wait to see another update.
wait another month or so...
btw burke good job so far but try to finish it before the year ends? ;)
[GF]Burke
07-29-2004, 07:39 PM
Done.
My paint didn't come out like Linear's. This was my first time seriously painting... however NEXT time I will just take it in to have it professionally painted.
All pics Here (http://www.ramsinks.com/frag0ps.aspx)
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/f05small.jpg (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/f05big.jpg)
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/f01small.jpg (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/f01big.jpg)
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/f03small.jpg (http://www.ramsinks.com/images/f03big.jpg)
-Shuttle MN31N motherboard - Dual channel RAM @ 333FSB. NVIDIA SoundStorm audio.
-Crucial PC2700 RAM (2x256) 333FSB.
-AMD XP2500 - Overclocked to 2.14Ghz
-NVIDIA eVGA 6800GT 256MB RAM DDR3. @ **testing***
-WD 40GB 8mb Hard Drive.
-420W ThermalTake PSU
-Memorex DVD/CDRW
-6-in-1 card reader (USB 2.0)
-ThermalTake SilentBoost HFS - lapped- with ASV
-Mirror at the bottom of case
-Rheostat to control the 120mm intake and 92mm exhaust (12v)
-3/4" nose propellor on intake
*will update with benchmarks, temps and GPU OC'n*
dworld
07-29-2004, 08:06 PM
awesome good job man that paint doesnt look that bad for a first time
Congratulations
(you finished yours unlike someone i know <<<)
wait.. you painted the inside of the case too? paint isnt conductive, so how are you keeping everything grounded?
[GF]Burke
07-29-2004, 08:26 PM
o ya .. grounding...
na, psu does it well enough.
thanks for the paint "kudo's". ill do better next time.. I can see myslef in it.. just not like "that other guys"..
;)
RedXray
07-29-2004, 08:52 PM
Looks dam good to me Burke
I bet she's a fast little hot rod to.
Congratulations!
archer1212
07-29-2004, 10:03 PM
with that case having the one piece sides...how hard is it to take on and off with the window? cause i got an old AT case with one piece sides and i dont know how damaging it will be to the plexi when taking the side paneling off
[GF]Zenix
07-29-2004, 10:39 PM
badass
zeLupin
07-29-2004, 11:13 PM
omg that 6800 is huge...
good job :D
WVJammer
07-30-2004, 02:48 AM
Originally posted by [GF]Burke@Jul 29 2004, 10:26 PM
o ya .. grounding...
na, psu does it well enough.
thanks for the paint "kudo's". ill do better next time.. I can see myslef in it.. just not like "that other guys"..
;)
"that other guy" has had alot
of practice though.
It looks good Burke.
Nice job on the wiring
too.
linear
07-30-2004, 09:24 AM
Looks real good--two things I especially like:
-- the psu with the custom mesh enclosure, that looks fantastic
-- the mirrored bottom, you didn't mention that in the mini-writeup, but that adds a lot.
-- and the handle, that's excellent.
okay, that's three, but I'm sure you'll forgive me.
Keep painting, don't give up....
elitecloud
07-30-2004, 09:27 AM
me likely :lol:
RedXray
07-30-2004, 10:51 AM
Originally posted by linear@Jul 30 2004, 11:24 AM
Keep painting, don't give up....
For sure don't give up.
There are a lot of variables that can determine the outcome of the job.
Lighting - If you can see how the paint is actually laying on the surface you can
adjust your speed and distance. To wet = faster stroke, further distance.
To Dry = slower stroke, closer distance. (it's all in the eye)
If your spraying outside find a cool shady spot.
If the case sits in the sun for any length of time the material will get hot
and when the paint hits the surface it will dry instantly with no flowing out
the result will be dry in some spots and orange peel in others.
Before you start... simply touch the parts and see if there hot... if so do not continue.
The best time for outdoor spraying is early in the morning before the
sun is blazing and there is still dew on the ground to help keep the dust down.
If you can lay all the pieces horizanaly... you can apply wetter coats and they will flow out smooth.
Standing parts verticaly... the paint tends to sag and run down the pieces.
The best jobs are the ones that are wet so the paint can flow out.
You want to get almost to the point of a run... then back off (fine line here)
I would rather see a job with a run than one thats dry all over.
Wet = shine
Dry = dull
Hang in there your just in a learning curve.
One day it will hit you when all the little things come together
then you'll say... Hey I'm pretty good at this after all!
burchie2001
07-30-2004, 10:59 AM
Nice work Burke. I really like the PSU cage and that 6800 GT. Can't wait til I get mine. Man seeing all these awesome case mods makes me wanna get a new case to work on.
[GF]Burke
07-30-2004, 11:53 AM
ya, thanks guys. (lin)
Well ok. So I tried to follow Lin's tutorial. To the "T". However each time I'd go to use the 400-600 sandpapaer to remove the "orange peal", i'd cut right through. The only pressure I'd use was the pressure from the water (the pull of the water inbetween the paper and case). I sanded almost underwater and after 2 days of cure time.. and used the same paint he showed in the pics.
I think If I would have used about 2 more coats and not cared about cutting through.. I would have removed the orange peal and all would have been ok.
Instead I just used 800-100 on the second coat so I wouldnt cut through.. but didn't get rid of this orange peal effect.. now I can see it. When it was wet- it looked really good.
I painted downstairs - it was about 70f.
He said to use "light pressure".. but again, i just used the suction from the water as my "pressure".
In the pics you can't see the shine.. but I can see my hand when I put it up close..
Mr. Miyagi
07-30-2004, 11:55 AM
Awesome job Burke. I'm glad that you got the PSU/CD-ROM/Case handle all worked out. This makes me want to do something to my Micro ATX.
[GF]Burke
07-31-2004, 01:19 AM
Danke.
What setup do you have?
linear
07-31-2004, 08:38 PM
Originally posted by [GF
Burke,Jul 30 2004, 11:53 AM] I think If I would have used about 2 more coats and not cared about cutting through.. I would have removed the orange peal and all would have been ok.
Instead I just used 800-100 on the second coat so I wouldnt cut through.. but didn't get rid of this orange peal effect.. now I can see it. When it was wet- it looked really good.
It sounds like Red's advice about getting a good "wet" coat was what you needed to hear. I'm guessing your color coats were just too thin.
Interestingly, even though it does take patience and practice to get the technique, I worked out all the details for myself doing drive bay blanks. I carried three or four of them through the whole process when I did my mirage case, before I ever shot any on the metal. So I made most (not all, oh no) of my mistakes on drive bay blanks. You still can't get around that cure time, but the time spent sanding on a test piece is a lot less.
Any time I make a significant change to my product or process, I do a few test pieces now, it's just a nice way to get the feel of a new product or technique.
You could possibly build up enough clear coat on what you have right now that you can cut through the clearcoat orange peel without getting into the color coat. I sense you want to be done, though, and that's cool. B) In no way should you feel bad about that case.
[GF]Burke
08-02-2004, 05:46 PM
ya too thin..
Next time though .. ;)
Thanks guys
http://www.ramsinks.com/images/IM001012.JPG
zeLupin
08-02-2004, 05:50 PM
dont crack the 6800!!!!! that would just suck.
\/1ndicated
08-02-2004, 06:14 PM
MAn u have some guts moddin a 6800 xt(i think i read u put an xt in) thats a way 2 blow some money. (slip) ah no
Thecookiemonster
08-02-2004, 06:16 PM
Thats really nice man. I r like it alot. One thing to try and do thow, is try and make that seam around the window a little lest, What about melting it toghter ? kinda looks weird. But I love da front fan ! Good jorb :)
[GF]Zenix
08-03-2004, 12:09 AM
is burke ever satisfied there always one more thing u could do huh burke?
[GF]Burke
08-03-2004, 10:19 AM
NEVER!! HEHE
Ahh you know me..
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