View Full Version : Building a water chiller
Megatron1977
08-05-2004, 11:54 AM
**56k Beware Big Pics**
Parts list:
1.6cf fridge - $54.99
PolarFlo 3/8" cpu waterblock - $105.00
Via Aqua 1300 pump - $29.00
10ft hose - $2.00
Tupperware container for resivior - $6.00
Neoprene - cheap
Insulation - $2.95
Misc. fittings and Teflon tape - $8.00
Paint - $8.00
Duct tape - $5.99
Total: $221.93 still cheaper that most watercooling kits. =)
The reason for my mod is that since my computer resides upstairs it get's hot, normal air cooling cannot get my cpu below 50C at full load. Water cooling will only cool the cpu to the room temp, which is pretty warm. I don't have the money to buy a $800 Vaporchill, so I'm trying this. I had no idea when I decided to try this that it had been done before, but I think I can do some things differenty. Anyways, I just got a fridge, and I'm going to start modding it tomorrow. Hopefully, my ideas will work, I'll keep you posted either way. Oh, and I'm sure I could have cut costs in places, like buying a used fridge and a cheaper waterblock, but I wanted all new parts.
burchie2001
08-05-2004, 12:09 PM
Sounds interesting. I'm eager to see how things will pan out.
dstone
08-05-2004, 12:29 PM
I am very interested to see how you deal with any possible condensation problems. I've been thinking about going to a Peltiere-assisted watercooling setup.
benjamin1254
08-05-2004, 12:33 PM
what are u thinking of doing? drilling a hole in both sides of the fridge and putting the tuperware resivore inside so it keeps cool? I think once it cools off inside the case it would cause condensation problems!
Megatron1977
08-05-2004, 12:54 PM
True, it would cause condensation, so I'm going to insulate the tubes from the fridge going all the way into the computer and insulate the waterblock and backside of the mobo, just like you would do if you were using a peltier. I'm not sure if I'm going to run the hoses through the side of the fridge, or through the top, or back. I was going to cool my northbridge and videocard as well, but that's going to come later after I see how this system works out.
dworld
08-05-2004, 09:52 PM
i will have to see how this works out i have watned to do this
Adamt
08-05-2004, 09:58 PM
just use a peltier from dangerden they can cool your cpu to zero below
Lightning
08-05-2004, 10:11 PM
Originally posted by Megatron1977@Aug 5 2004, 10:54 AM
Parts list:
1.6cf fridge - $54.99
PolarFlo 3/8" cpu waterblock - $79.00
Via Aqua 1300 pump - $21.99
20ft Tygon hose - $55.00
Tupperware container for resivior - cheap or free
Neoprene - cheap
Tygon insulation - haven't priced yet
Old radiator - Free
Misc. fittings - haven't priced yet
As Adamt said, It would be a lot easier, and it would look nicer, to use a peltier. Many people I know that used peltiers are very pleased with them. You could get one with a cpu water block for around $125 from swiftech.
The link (http://www.swiftnets.com/)
Megatron1977
08-06-2004, 11:43 AM
The reason I'm going this way instead of the peltier is I don't wan't another PSU in my computer, and I'm hard headed and want to try something different. Besides, where's the fun in using a prebuilt system? I thought we were all modders here? Anyways, I'm almost finished with the resivior, and I got all the plumbing purchased. On tuesday I'll drill the holes in the fridge, mount the resivior, and get most of the plumbing installed. I'm probably going to order the pump and waterblock on monday. Then all I have to do is scrape up some neoprene.
P.S. I found a better deal on the tubing, I got 20ft for around $5.00 at Lowes. It's rated at 55 psi, so it should work fine.
Adamt
08-06-2004, 02:01 PM
vinyl crap i hate that that tubing that is what i have with a foot of tygon in my case vinyl kinks like crazy!
Megatron1977
08-06-2004, 02:23 PM
I'm pretty sure that this won't kink, I did test it out and it's pretty stiff, not only that, but it will be wrapped in insulation, and the way I'm routing it won't have but maybe 2 bends. Besides, if it doesn't work, I'm only out my time and $5.00.
benjamin1254
08-06-2004, 03:36 PM
well have u started on the project yet? I would like to see a step by step post put up so we know what you have done...
Megatron1977
08-06-2004, 04:02 PM
I've got most of the parts, now I'm still working on implementation. I'm taking pics of everything, I'll post them as soon as I can. The part I'm working on now is where to drill the holes in the fridge. Since it's a newer fridge the condensor is hidden. I've taken the fridge apart as best I could, even called the manufacturer, but I still can't find it. I've decided to drill through the the side, hopefully I won't hit anything. If I do I'll just get an older model which I should have done in the first place. I'm usually on here everyday, so I'll keep this post up to date.
scifikg
08-06-2004, 04:45 PM
Cool project. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this one.
Megatron1977
08-06-2004, 07:12 PM
After I recoup from buying the pump and waterblock, I'm also thinking about adding a ThermoChill HE120.3 on the return line outside the fridge, if it will fit that thing is huge, since it should help lower the temp of the water comming into the fridge. This should make the fridge not have to work as hard to keep the res cool. I've actually got a free pump that I'm checking into, the only problems with it is that it's a 12v boat bilge pump, and it pumps like 1400gph. lol
It's probably too big, but it would be free, that's enough incentive for me to at least think about it.
benjamin1254
08-07-2004, 05:03 AM
hey it might work better then a standerd pc pump. I would try it.... how big is this fridge? Is it a collage student size or an average sized fridge?
High Voltage Guru
08-07-2004, 07:48 AM
Originally posted by benjamin1254@Aug 7 2004, 07:03 AM
hey it might work better then a standerd pc pump. I would try it.... how big is this fridge? Is it a collage student size or an average sized fridge?
he said it's 1.6 cubic feet...
Looking forward to this project megatron! B)
Megatron1977
08-07-2004, 08:46 AM
I'm thinking the pump will be too big it's actually 1600gph, plus it's a 12v. So, I'm going to check out the price of a 500-600 pond pump. And as for the rad, I'm going to first try it without and check the temps, then put a free heaterblock in the loop and see if it would help or hurt. Thanks for all the support everyone, this might be a long process, but I will keep you up to date.
Megatron1977
08-07-2004, 12:57 PM
I finally found where the condenser is, it's on both sides of the fridge, so I'll be drilling the holes through the top on Tuesday. I couldn't find anyone who knew where the condenser was, but luckily a guy on OCForums gave me an idea...turn the fridge on and feel where it gets hot, so simple I feel like an idiot for not trying that in the first place. lol
Anyways, I hope to order the waterblock and pump on Monday, and get most of the work done on Tuesday, and if I have time start painting as well. Then all I have to do is install and insulate everything. I'm not trying to rush it, so maybe it will be done by the end of the month. I'll be posting pics soon too.
benjamin1254
08-07-2004, 01:04 PM
I hope to order the waterblock and pump on Monday, and get most of the work done on Tuesday, and if I have time start painting as well.
are you gana paint the fridge as well? I hope things get done in a slow orderly paced facion where you have time to do things properly. I wonder how it will look coming out of the top of the fridge...... I think with maybe you could add neon lights to the inside of the fridge to make it look cool but, from what I hear already I know its gana look cool and make your computer cooler. (no pun intended)
Megatron1977
08-07-2004, 01:28 PM
Don't worry, I'm not going to rush things. I can't work on it Mon. or Wed. cause I'm in college, but any other day I've got nothing to do since I've got all my homework for the entire quarter done already. And yes I plan on painting the fridge, cause I don't like white. I'm going to paint it metallic pearl black with the decepticon logo in metallic pearl purple. This will be a work in progress though, so even when it's up and running I will still be modding it. I was thinking a couple of blacklight CCFL's and maybe even a front window. It should be pretty straight when I get it done. Again, thanks for all the support, and even if you think it won't work please let me know. I get some of my best ideas when people say something won't work, plus it motivates me to prove them wrong. lol
benjamin1254
08-07-2004, 04:18 PM
Parts list:
1.6cf fridge - $54.99
PolarFlo 3/8" cpu waterblock - $79.00
Via Aqua 1300 pump - $21.99
20ft Tygon hose - $55.00
Tupperware container for resivior - cheap or free
Neoprene - cheap
Tygon insulation - haven't priced yet
Old radiator - Free
Misc. fittings - haven't priced yet
We need to add that in +
Car paint 2 types.....
2 or 3 diffrent CCFL's .... ( id recomend getting the ones that give off UV rays)
I would put the first caot of paint on with a primer.... + tape off whatever logo u may paint on there so you don't have to worrie about getting a little more over on the sides of the logo. you can pull it off in the end and have a crisp nice paint job. I like uv reactive stuff... I think it looks cool. It gives a nice effect to things.
Megatron1977
08-07-2004, 04:51 PM
Yeah, certain things I haven't gotten yet, that I don't know if or how much I am gonna use, I didn't put into my price list, but I am keeping a list, and it will be in the final post. Later I'm really thinking of putting a window in the door in the shape of the decepticon logo, but that's much later down the road.
spitfire9701
08-07-2004, 06:20 PM
just a thougth, but if you were to cut a window in the fridge i think it would affect the insulation of the fridge and it would put a huge strain on it. i am not sure but i think it would. sounds cool though.
Megatron1977
08-07-2004, 06:46 PM
I've thought about that too, I'd have to use insulated glass it's double glass with a space of air in-between. I'll have to look into it, I might just go with a lighted design, I haven't decided yet.
Megatron1977
08-07-2004, 10:11 PM
I'm also going to look into putting an old 400w psu inside the fridge to power any CCFL's or whatever, I'm just not sure how it will react to the cold. Anyone know?
[GF]Zenix
08-08-2004, 02:10 AM
will there be room left in there for a couple of cokes?
Adamt
08-08-2004, 03:05 AM
condensation on the psu board
Megatron1977
08-08-2004, 08:02 AM
There's room for cokes or whatever in the fridge door and maybe under the res.
As for condensation I might have to build an airtight container for the psu, and maybe get a fanless psu, I dunno.
benjamin1254
08-08-2004, 08:34 AM
hmmmm..... this water condensation thing seems to be a major issue here. I wonder if there is a way to keep the water from condenceing! I wonder if adding a radiator in there would help.
scifikg
08-08-2004, 08:49 AM
Originally posted by benjamin1254@Aug 8 2004, 02:34 PM
hmmmm..... this water condensation thing seems to be a major issue here. I wonder if there is a way to keep the water from condenceing! I wonder if adding a radiator in there would help.
Maybe you could use the cooling coils of the refrigerator as a sort of make shfit dehumidifier before the computer is turnded on so that almost all moisture is removed from the air.
Megatron1977
08-08-2004, 09:15 AM
Inside the computer condensation won't be a factor as long as I insulate the tubes and waterblock like you would if you were using a peltier. While I am going to try adding a rad, I actually think it will have a negative effect on the proformance. Inside the fridge the only condensation I've seen results from the evaporator(freezer part), which will be contained in the res. I'm not too worried about this right now though, I'm more focused on the actual build and implimentation. Asthetic mods will be later on.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 10:50 AM
It's been a pretty productive day, I got the holes drilled in the fridge, thankfully I didn't drill through anything. I also got all the connectors installed, for this I used (in order) 3/8" OD to 1/2" OD barb, 1/2" OD double-threaded connector, rubber O-ring, 3" PVC Nipples with 1/2" OD, another rubber O-ring, 1/2" OD Ball Valve, and another 3/8" OD to 1/2" OD barb. I did this for both the inlet and return lines. Since everything was threaded I just used Teflon tape, ans since the 3" pvc nipples were just a little long, I used two O-rings to seal it. I know it sounds confusing, but I did take pics, and I will post again soon, now I'm off to insulate my my tubing.
scifikg
08-10-2004, 11:05 AM
pics please.
benjamin1254
08-10-2004, 11:19 AM
that sounds like the work of a good hard day/morning. yeah as soon as you can post the pics. I would like to see what you have done so far.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 11:34 AM
Got the tubing insulalation done. All I have to do now is purchase the pump, waterblock, neoprene, conformal coating, dialectric grease, and some sealant, and put it all together. I still need to do some work to ther res, but that's shouldn't take me too long.
OK, could someone tell me how to post pics? I have 5 or so, but I just need a free way to post them.
scifikg
08-10-2004, 11:48 AM
Hit "add reply".
Then right above second "add reply" is "file attachments".
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 12:10 PM
Mine doesn't have a file attachments button, I have a IMG button up at the top, but it asks for a hyperlink.
scifikg
08-10-2004, 12:18 PM
The "file attaachment" feature might not be enabled in this section. PM Redxray or [GF]Burke about enabling it or moving this thread to worklog area. I know it works over there.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 01:09 PM
Let's see if this works.
http://img39.exs.cx/img39/1097/FridgeFront1.jpg
This is the front of the fridge before any mods.
By the way, I'm going to do each pic in a different posts.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 01:19 PM
http://img18.exs.cx/img18/8213/Holes1.jpg
Here's the two holes I drilled in the top of the fridge, I had to drill them a little bigger than the 1/2"OD of my pipes.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 01:24 PM
http://img18.exs.cx/img18/7056/Plumbing1.jpg
This is part of the plumbing, basically just the connector and 3" nipple. The white stuff is Teflon tape for the threads. Once through the holes I added the O-rings, the ball valve, and then I added the barbs. I'll have to take a pic of those installed, I just forgot to do it earlier.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 01:26 PM
http://img69.exs.cx/img69/3417/Insulation1.jpg
Here is one of the tubes with some insulation around it.
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 01:29 PM
http://img69.exs.cx/img69/4479/FinishedInsulation1.jpg
Here is the finished inlet and return lines. I used pipe insulator with colored duct tape wrapped around it. Well, that's all the pics I have so far, I'll post more soon.
benjamin1254
08-10-2004, 01:35 PM
i like the insulation man... i thought it would be thinner. I like the fridge you have got.... it's NICE! all in all it looks great. What im wondering is..... about the black marks around the holes you drilled what are they from? are they scuff marks?
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 02:15 PM
Thanks for the compliments. Actually those black marks are grease and dirt from my hands. I'm doing most of the work at my stepfather's auto shop. I had to get down on the ground to do most of the work. I'm going to clean the fridge before I slap on the paint. On a side not, I ordered the pump and waterblock today. I went with the submersible Aqua 1300 from www.aquastealth.com for $29 with shipping, and the PolarFlo SF with AMD64 mount from www.frozencpu.com for $105 with shipping. Once I get everything hooked up, and save up some more money, I'm going to replace the 3 case fans with low noise Panflow's, a nb cooler, and memory coolers, but before all that I'm going to add on a waterblock for my X800. I'm going to be at college tomorrow, so I won't be doing any work then, but Thursday I'll be working again. I'll keep you posted as more work continues.
Nice looking so far megatron.
I've been working on a project like this, but I've only gotten as far as holes in the fridge, mounting the res. and pump. But all my projects are on hold for a while due to $$$ and time.
I can't wait to see what's next :D
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 02:44 PM
Thanks Jon. I've still got a little work left to do, like insulating the waterblock and mobo and painting, but it's almost done and I'm stoked to see what the temps are.
Heh, actually you're inspiring me to pick it up again, but I dunno if I have the time.
But there are some considerations you're taking into account that I did not. Also I used copper for all my fridge to pc conenctions, then tubes inside both the fridge and the PC.
I can't wait to see how it looks in the end. Also love the red and blue for hot and cold :D
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 03:58 PM
DON'T USE COPPER FITTINGS!!!
Use PVC, copper transfers heat and cold too well and you will lose all your cooling through those fittings. I wanted to go with copper too cause it looks better, but it will cut your preformance. I'm also going to insulate the PVC outside the fridge, then maybe re-insulate the whole thing. Then I'm going to get PVC ducting to go over the it all.
anode
08-10-2004, 04:04 PM
Put the PSU in the fridge. Condensation will NOT be an issue unless you open it for a spell on a hot humid day. It will be dry inside the fridge. If it does get moist in there, turn the fridge on, keep PSU and computer off for about an hour or so to dry things out.
Reminds me of my laser days. Took a mirror out for a beam alignment (mirror was cooled to 65F) It was like 100% humidity and about 90F By the time I turned the mirror around, it was fogged up. Or another time the top of the resonator was all moist doors open and I turned on the HV. made a nasty bang. Tried it again and got a nasty error message (but was ok) Just closed the doors, it dried out and all was hunky-dory
anode
08-10-2004, 04:07 PM
Originally posted by Megatron1977@Aug 10 2004, 05:58 PM
DON'T USE COPPER FITTINGS!!!
Use PVC, copper transfers heat and cold too well and you will lose all your cooling through those fittings. I wanted to go with copper too cause it looks better, but it will cut your preformance. I'm also going to insulate the PVC outside the fridge, then maybe re-insulate the whole thing. Then I'm going to get PVC ducting to go over the it all.
Use the copper on the outlet side. Your trying to disapate heat at that point. ANd if the copper is insulated, then for it all over. You won't loose anything
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 06:06 PM
Well, I still don't think it's wise to use metal, even insulated it's still hard to insulate perfectly. Anyways, speaking of insulation, I got my neoprene today, I just bought 6 mousepads for $1.77 each. I probably will only use 3 or 4, but it's always nice to have some left over, in case you mess up. I'll probably stop by Advance Auto tomorrow after school for the conformal coating and dialectric grease. And I'll start insulating the mobo tomorrow.
computerman
08-10-2004, 06:36 PM
hey, if it all works it sounds like it will really help out and get your computer CHILLING the only problem that i can see is maybe getting it all to move enough but you probably have it all very well planned out... any ways i was wondering. whats pelter cooling that it can get your system to such a low temp?
Megatron1977
08-10-2004, 08:17 PM
A petier is a metal plate that is electrically charged causing one side to get really cold, the downsides of this is condensation, and the other side of the peltier get's extremely hot. This requires a very high powered fan, or watercooling, to draw away the heat. The problem with this is if your fan stops, or your watercooling system breaks down, you will fry your cpu in a flash. That's why I opted to try a waterchiller. I will still have condensation considerations, but even if the fridge breaks down I'll have time to catch it before it ruins my cpu, plus if my idea doesn't work, all I have to do is buy a radiator and I have a normal watercooling setup.
computerman
08-10-2004, 08:22 PM
ohh ok so peltier is not the way to go unless you have basicly money to waste lol ... good luck man hope it worx
anode
08-10-2004, 08:24 PM
pelters work fine. and used a lot. not nearly as much as straight watercooling, but still used and sold by swiftech adn the like. Its all in the design. Add a current meter to the pelter and if it stops drawing current, kill the puter.
Megatron1977
08-11-2004, 07:33 PM
Well, I couldn't find conformal coating where I live, so I just used RTV Sealant. I'm going to let this set overnight and check in the morning if I missed anything. I should get the waterblock tomorrow or Friday, and I'll be insulating and installing it on the mobo. I'm taking some pics, and I'll post them soon.
Megatron1977
08-11-2004, 08:35 PM
Some pics of the mobo insulation insulation.
1st my mobo.
http://img65.exs.cx/img65/2274/Mobo.jpg
This is the insulation for the back of the mobo, all I did was put RTV sealant over all the metal that covers the back of the cpu, it's airtight so I just left the metal thing on.
http://img65.exs.cx/img65/4783/RTV1.jpg
This is the cpu socket that I put RTV around the edges and in the middle of, then I cut a small piece of neoprene and fit it into the cpu hole.
http://img46.exs.cx/img46/980/moboinsul.jpg
That's all for now, hope you like.
benjamin1254
08-12-2004, 04:45 AM
wow..if things go right temps might hit mear 35 dagrees. I wouldent be suprised to see them fly even lower than that with the insulation.
scifikg
08-12-2004, 06:07 AM
I'm not sure I understand. Why do you need that insulation on the socket?
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 08:36 AM
Well, I went with the same mobo insulation that you would use with a peltier. I'm a little over cautious sometimes, but better safe than sorry. I'm basically making everything air-tight. No air = No condensation. Actually I'm hoping to hit lower than 35C, I'm hoping to hit 5C or less. My goal for doing this experiment is to go colder than watercooling without spending more money than a traditional watercooling setup.
i think he meant 35F which is around 0C
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 02:28 PM
More Pics
This is the fridge with the insulated tubing attached.
http://img57.exs.cx/img57/4350/100_0090.jpg
This is a pic of the inside of the fridge, I installed the resivior today. It turns out that was the hardest part so far because I had to bend the evaporator while being very careful to not break it or the thin tube with the coolant in it.
http://img65.exs.cx/img65/5862/100_92.jpg
Almost done, just waiting on the pump and waterblock.
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 05:25 PM
I put my digital thermometer in the resivior without any water an before long it was down to -4C, I'll let it set awhile and see how low it goes.
SLAY3R
08-12-2004, 05:35 PM
Looking good man. I can't wait to see the end results. :D
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 05:50 PM
Thanks, I might hold off on painting it because of the weather, but I'm looking forward to getting the waterblock tomorrow and the pump on Monday or Tuesday. I just checked the thermometer and it looks like it's topping out at -11C, it's be nice if it got a little colder, but I can live with it.
anode
08-12-2004, 06:36 PM
Originally posted by Megatron1977@Aug 12 2004, 07:50 PM
Thanks, I might hold off on painting it because of the weather, but I'm looking forward to getting the waterblock tomorrow and the pump on Monday or Tuesday. I just checked the thermometer and it looks like it's topping out at -11C, it's be nice if it got a little colder, but I can live with it.
colder? Sure the CPU will raise the temp. But water below 0C doesn't exactly flow well. Though I'm sure you will be adding in some antifreeze (don't waste money on the 'modder's extreme' cr*p) wich will add in the boil and freeze points. 50/50 is best (at least for the temps cars see)
Lightning
08-12-2004, 07:06 PM
I heard that 25% antirfeeze and 75% distilled water is best. Does anyone have any facts or charts to compare?
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 07:27 PM
I don't have any charts or anything, but I'm going to try 25% antifreeze and 75% water and see how that works, if I see it freezing I'll add some more antifreeze. It should work pretty well once I get those last two parts. I hate being having to be patient. lol
anode
08-12-2004, 07:30 PM
Originally posted by Lightning@Aug 12 2004, 09:06 PM
I heard that 25% antirfeeze and 75% distilled water is best. Does anyone have any facts or charts to compare?
I was refering to for a car. The boiling point under standard car pressures, a 50:50 mix was best. For a 'puter..... looks like an other test for my test-jig. Gimmie a week or so and I'll let ya know. No BS, straight results. (I know my manhood :) )
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 07:33 PM
Yeah, let us know what you find, although I'm not sure if it will help in my rig because I'm cooling mine.
anode
08-12-2004, 07:34 PM
Originally posted by Megatron1977@Aug 12 2004, 09:27 PM
I don't have any charts or anything, but I'm going to try 25% antifreeze and 75% water and see how that works, if I see it freezing I'll add some more antifreeze. It should work pretty well once I get those last two parts. I hate being having to be patient. lol
you will NOT see it freezing uless the fridge can do like -15C or better and flow is real slow. Even with straight water. Jst because your fridge goes to, say -5C with no load, doesn't mean the CPU will be at that. a lot of factors involved, from the friction of the water runnng through the tubes, the pressure of the water, the power dispation of the CPU, etc, etc.
Just light a couple candles inside the fridge and see where the temp goes.....
SLAY3R
08-12-2004, 07:40 PM
I had a friend that used window washer fluid. :huh:
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 07:56 PM
I know it will be different once I get it mounted to the CPU, plus my pump is going into my res, so it will add some heat as well. I found another person that did almost exactly what I did and he was telling me that with the comp off he was seeing ice chunks in a 75% water 25% antifreeze mix. Window washer fluid could work, but I'm afraid it might freeze as well. Anyways, I also bought a table fan to sit near the back of the fridge to help cool the compressor, maybe take some of the load off of it.
Megatron1977
08-12-2004, 08:37 PM
I'm actually going to try something tonight, I'm going to mix up some water and anti freeze in an old Mountain Dew bottle and place it in the res overnight, I'll see if there's ice in it tomorrow morning. Low tech is best. lol
Megatron1977
08-14-2004, 12:43 PM
Well, it works, 11C under load at 2.3Ghz. Unfortunatly my X800 stopped working for some reason. It didn't have anything to do with what I did, because my old v/c works fine. Whenever I put in my x800 it says that it need to be plugged in, and eventhough I checked all the connectors, I still can't get it to work. I'll have some pics of the setup and some screen shots of my temps later, I'm still bummed about my X800.
Megatron1977
08-14-2004, 07:02 PM
More bad news, I won't be taking pics till Monday hopefully. My Adobe PS CD is stuck in my laptop and I can't get it out till I get a new battery on Monday. Other than that everything is working fine, I'm not running my comp full time untill the Artic Silver 5 cures, but I haven't noticed any condensation and my temps stay constant at 11C. By the way, I bought a bigger pump, 500gph, because my laptop died and I needed a computer for homework. For the most part this job is done, I'm still planning some more visual mods such as paint and stuff like that, but for right now I'm just enjoying my cooler computer. Stay tuned for some pics and screenshots.
Megatron1977
08-17-2004, 12:32 PM
As promised, more pics...
http://img32.exs.cx/img32/3875/100_93.jpg
This is the top of the PolarFlo waterblock. Although I love this waterblock I'm going to change it out later for one with only 1 inlet and 1 outlet.
http://img32.exs.cx/img32/7338/100_0094.jpg
This is the bottom of the waterblock. PolarFlo did a beautiful job with the lapping.
http://img32.exs.cx/img32/3451/100_0096.jpg
This is how I insulated it. I just cut some cheap mousepads and sealed them around the waterblock and mobo using RTV sealant. When I do my second revision, I'm going to invest in some conformal coating and maybe a waterblock insulation kit from DD.
Anyways, I'm going to post some picks of the whole system and screenshots in a few minutes.
Megatron1977
08-17-2004, 12:47 PM
Here is the final setup.
http://img37.exs.cx/img37/2110/100_0097.jpg
Sorry I can't get a better pic but I can explain it. It's just like a regular water cooling setup the only difference is that I've had to insulate the tubing. On my next revision I'm going to deck it out more with paint and some insulation covers, I would have done all that this time, but Ihad something come up where I needed the computer and I didn't have time to wait on paint and stuff. Plus I wanted to make sure it worked before I went and poured more money into it. lol
Anyways, as soon as SiSoft Sandra runs through a few more benchmarks to check for stability I'll post the screen shots.
Megatron1977
08-17-2004, 02:07 PM
Ok, here's the screenshots.
http://img15.exs.cx/img15/7104/System.jpg
This is what my system is running at right now, I might try to push it a bit more, but for now I'm happy. By the way, I did photoshop out my last name and the computer ID, but that's all I swear, all numbers and stats are untouched.
http://img25.exs.cx/img25/3526/MBM.jpg
This is Motherboard Monitor 5. I took this after I ran 15 loops of Sandra which is why my case temp was up to 46C. Under the load of Sandra my CPU temp never went higher than 23C, most of the time it stayed around 19C, but as you can see most of the time it's at 11-12C.
http://img15.exs.cx/img15/3032/Sandra.jpg
This is just to show that my system is stable at 2.3Ghz. Some people might say that a .3Ghz increase isn't worth it, but seeing as how the Athlon64 isn't very good at overclocking I think it's a nice improvement.
This was a really great project in my opinion, but it's not done yet. I'm looking into getting an older fridge with the condensor on the back that way I can add some fans to help dissapate the heat, I'm also going to add some kind of switch to turn the pump on and off. I'll post pics again when I get the revision done. If anyone has any questions just drop me a line.
Megatron1977
09-04-2004, 09:03 PM
Just a quick update, I was getting some condensation which killed my mobo, so I swapped the waterblock to a DD Maze4 which I installed onto my ASUS KV-8 Deluxe. I also used conformal coating this time around and it makes a lot of difference. I also insulated my resivior which I need to take pics of, but I'm now at 3 degrees C. at startup, and 7C without load and 10C under load.
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